About
Processors
A processor is your computer's
"brain". It handles all of the
calculations that make your computer work and because of this determines the
computing speed of your PC. A faster
processor can handle more intense applications with ease and give you the
horsepower you need to get the most out of your new PC!
Things to Know
For compatibilities sake,
there are really only two names that matter when it comes to processors: Intel
and AMD. In the past, Intel had been
king with the fastest processors and the best reputation. However, lately things have changed. AMD really made a name for itself by
introducing the blazingly fast Athlon processor that broke the 1 GHz clock
speed barrier and as of this writing, AMD has just released the Athlon 64 FX 55
(2.6 GHz), their newest CPU designed to maximize your experience with the
Windows XP operating systems. The Athlon 64 is also 64-bits, instead of the
standard 32-bit, allowing to you use the next generation software that comes
out for 64-bit processing. Meanwhile, Intel has announced their latest
“catch-up” entry into the processor playing field with the 3.6 GHz Pentium 4
processor (32-bit still). With that in
mind, you should understand that both manufacturers offer excellent processors
and either will work very well for you, just make sure you get a motherboard
that supports your choice.
Choosing which processor you
want is usually a combination price and speed.
The fastest processors are usually much more expensive then the next
fastest model. For this reason, it’s
almost always a bad idea to buy the fastest processor available. This processor will only be discounted when a
faster model is released, so it pays to be aware of when new models are going
to be released and buy then. Processors
are rated in megahertz (MHz) and gigahertz (GHz) - this is known as the
"clock speed" of the processor.
Nowadays you will see more and more chips rated in gigahertz (GHz) -
these are of course the fastest. As a
general rule, you should buy the fastest chip you can afford, however, when
selecting your processor, be aware that not all processors are created equal. For example an Intel Pentium III 800MHz processor
is faster (in many operations, especially those involving graphics and floating
point calculations) then an Intel Celeron 800MHz processor. Intel makes both processors, and they look
very similar but the Celeron is of a different design. The best way to sort through all of this is
to check out reviews and benchmarks from online sites or in magazines.
It is also imperative to note
that the Athlon 64 FX 55 (2.6 GHz) will not work “1 GHz slower” than the Intel
Pentium 4 (3.6 GHz). These processors are created totally differently and the
internal workings of the processor itself vary, making the actually run about
the same speed. Intel and AMD have been neck and neck and so have the fans from
each side. To be honest, it’s a matter of choice; just know that the GHz speed
on each do not compare directly when you cross brands. It is just like
comparing apples to oranges, you will not get the correct result.
CPU’s are installed on
motherboards using a variety of configurations or “Sockets”. Sockets have a variety of names such as
Socket 1, Socket 370, Slot 1, etc.
Although it’s beyond the scope of this program to examine sockets in
detail, keep in mind that you must make sure your new processor will be
compatible with your motherboard.
Software
Configuration
Software configuration for new
processors usually just involves adjusting the BIOS to recognize the new
processor. In "Jumper-less"
motherboards, a BIOS will usually be equipped with a "Soft Menu" type
BIOS which will be able to auto-detect the processor the first time you boot
your PC. Just make sure you double-check
that it detected the processor correctly.
If your motherboard is not self-configuring, after setting your jumpers
and/or DIP-switches you will need to adjust the BIOS settings to accommodate
the new CPU. You will need to consult
your motherboard's manual for information on setting the BIOS to accommodate
the new processor.
If your CPU is
different
Although we used a Pentium III
CPU in our PC, newer CPU’s may use a different slot design. Older CPU’s as well as Pentium II and Celeron
processors use what is called a "Slot 1" design. If you are not installing one of these CPU's
you are most likely using a "Socket 7" or even newer design. The original Pentium as well as AMD and Cyrix
use this design. If you are using this
type of CPU, your motherboard will probably make use of a ZIF (zero-insertion
force) socket - if so, please refer to chapter 5 for instructions on this type
of installation. Note that the Slot design is almost extinct at this time and
you will only see them on past motherboards.
In all cases, refer to the CPU
installation instructions for help on determining the type of slot you need to
use and how to properly install the processor.
You may even want to consider purchasing a new motherboard and a new CPU
as a “boxed” set. This means that the
CPU is already installed on the motherboard and ready to go right out of the
box. You can often find slightly better
prices when purchasing the components this way!
You should first choose a CPU,
note the socket it requires and look for a motherboard with that socket. A
motherboard with a different socket than your CPU’s socket is worthless!
Things to Know
About Memory
When choosing
memory, you must determine what type and how much your motherboard can accept.
Check your motherboard manual for the exact type of chip (SIMM, EDO, DIMM,
SDRAM, RIMM, DDR, etc.), the exact speed (usually defined in nanoseconds, like:
60ns), the exact size (like 64MB, 128MB, 256MB, 512MB etc.), the total amount
the motherboard will accept per bank, and any other special requirements like
whether it has to be PC100 or PC133, etc.
Next, examine how many banks you have available so you have an idea of
what kind of chips you can buy.
How much memory do
you really need? We think that more is definitely better but with today’s
operating systems, the absolute minimum is 512MB for Windows XP (as it uses a
good half or more itself as the OS).
1024MB (1GB) is so cheap today that it is recommended you go that route.
You will surely notice the difference in performance.
As of this
writing, the best memory choice available is probably the Double Data Rate DRAM
(DDR), which will work in newer motherboards.
Unlike older memory technologies, DDR’s operate at two operations per
clock cycle, effectively doubling the memory bandwidth. DDR’s are available in different
configurations including PC2700, PC3200, all the way up to PC4400. DDR technology is rapidly expanding, which
means you should always look for the latest available memory modules. Be sure
that your motherboard supports these newer modules first!
There is also a
new DDR type out, named DDR2. These modules usually come in higher speeds but
your motherboard must explicitly support DDR2. DDR2 modules are not the same as
DDR modules so be careful when using them in combination with your motherboard.
Some motherboards support DDR2 and DDR on the same board but have markings or
colorings to distinguish the two. Please check with your motherboard manual if
this is the case.
RDRAM (RAMBUS) is
also another memory type that you may wish to look into. Generally, RDRAM has
higher speeds but is also more expensive. Remember that mostly all your
limitations are set by your motherboard, so be sure to check if your
motherboard supports RDRAM before purchasing any modules.
Buy brand name
memory from a reputable manufacturer.
Poorly manufactured memory can cause you problems later like mysterious
"lock-ups" and can cause your system to crash unexpectedly. Good brands for memory are: Toshiba, Siemens,
Corsair, Kingston, Samsung, and Micron.
Software
Configuration
Most motherboards auto detect
new memory upon the first boot up and will instantly begin using it. You therefore don't have to really do any configuring. Even so, check your motherboard's manual to
be certain.
If your RAM
chips are different
If you are not using 168-pin
DIMM’s like we are, consult your motherboard manual for required
configurations; there is usually a chart that shows what chips can be installed
in what combination.
If you are installing a SIMM,
you will do so by inserting in at about a 45-degree angle. Obviously, SIMM’s don’t sit in the
motherboard at a 45-degree angle so now you need to rotate it to the vertical
position. This may require a bit of
pressure, but do not force it. If it is
too hard, it’s probably installed backwards.
When it is vertical, you should see the little plastic or metal clips
snap into place, holding the SIMM securely.
If your motherboard is even newer
and you have SDRAM, RIMMS or DDR, these slide into the appropriate slots on
your motherboard. There is an alignment
notch offset from the middle to guide you when inserting the RIMM. At either end of the slot is a plastic lever,
which presses downwards and locks the memory module into place.
Always remember to check your
motherboard’s user manual for the correct number and style of memory modules it
will accept!
Important Tips
Memory is extremely
susceptible to static electricity, so it bears repeating: be very careful.
