Build own PC -Installing The Hard Drive & Floppy

About Hard Drives

The technology that determines the amount of data a hard drive can store is growing by leaps and bounds.  Literally every month, each dollar you spend on a drive will get you more and more space and with that space comes a place to store more pictures, video files, documents, games and application software.  But that’s not the only benefit a new hard drive brings to the table.  New drives are faster then ever, and this speed translates into a much more responsive PC and better overall performance

Things to Know

When choosing a new hard drive, there are two main determining factors: size and speed. By size, we mean the amount of data the drive can store.  An acceptable hard drive is 80 Gigabytes (or 80GB), but more is better, so a 120 GB would be an even better purchase.  As mentioned above, the technology is changing extremely fast, so it’s a good idea to get the largest drive you can afford; don’t worry, you can always use the extra space! The next factor in choosing a hard drive is speed.  Speed is determined by transfer rate, a specification noted on the hard drive’s packaging.  One simple way to compare drives is to look at the RPM’s the drive is rated at.  Usually, the higher the RPM’s the faster the hard drive can find and transfer data.  Again, you should get the fastest you can afford but don’t be afraid to compromise a little on speed for more space if the price is right; most drives today are plenty fast as it is for most applications. 7200 RPM is the recommended standard, don’t bother with 5400 RPM.

The next thing to keep in mind when choosing a drive is the drive’s interface.  Most home PC’s, like the one we’re building, are based on the IDE/EIDE interface standard - alternatives to IDE/EIDE includes SCSI or FireWire interfaces.  If you decide to purchase a SCSI drive, you will need to make sure you have a SCSI interface card already installed, or buy one with the drive. 

Armed with this knowledge we suggest an EIDE ATA/100 or ATA/133 hard drive if your motherboard supports ATA/100 or ATA/133.  The “ATA/100” or “ATA/133” is also known as Ultra DMA or UDMA/100/133 respectively - this basically refers to transfer rate.  Older motherboards will probably not support ATA/100 or ATA/133 transfer modes, but that’s OK.  You can still get one of these drives and use it on your system.

We recommend checking reviews in major PC magazines for an idea of what’s available and which drive is right for you.

ATA/100 and ATA/133 Drive Cables

Chances are you have decided to install an ATA/100 or ATA/133 Ultra DMA drive for your hard drive.  If your motherboard supports UDMA drives, you want to make sure to use the special UDMA cable that came with your new drive or with your motherboard.  These cables are 40-pin, 80-conductor cables, as opposed to a standard IDE cable which has 40-pins but only 40-conductors.  This 80-conductor UDMA cable will allow you to take full advantage of your new drive’s speed. 

If your UDMA cable has 3 connectors and they are usually different colors: blue, black, and gray.  The blue connector MUST be plugged into the motherboard’s UDMA IDE port. The black connector will plug into the Master drive and the gray connector will plug into the Slave drive.  If your UDMA cable has only two connectors, the gray connector (or Slave connector) will be missing.  If you need an extra connector for your slave drive, you will need to purchase a 3-connector cable.  In the event that your UDMA cable is not color coded, it will be labeled with stickers that say “System” or “Main Board” and then “Master” and “Slave”.  Keep in mind, this color-coding only makes a difference if your motherboard can handle an UDMA drive, you are using a UDMA drive, and you have this UDMA cable.  If you have installed a UDMA drive onto a motherboard that only supports plain IDE, you can use your regular IDE cable; the drive will be perfectly happy - it just won’t run as fast as it can. 

SATA Drive Cables

Serial ATA (SATA) is another way to go, especially if you want more than your IDE capacity in drives. Maybe you just want room for more CD burners or readers, who knows. Most Serial ATA drives come with the standard 4 pin power port and a SATA cable port. They also have the ATA jumper settings available. SATA is much like ATA, simply with a different cable.

Simply plug in the SATA cable to the back of the drive and into the motherboard slot and all should be well. You might have to set some setting in the BIOS to get the motherboard to recognize it.

Setting Jumpers

Correctly setting jumpers is critical for your new drive to function properly.  Most of the time there will be a label on the top of the drive that has a diagram for jumper settings.  If you look at the back end of the drive, the jumper positions corresponding to the diagram are usually labeled here as well (if they are not, check your drive’s manual).  The three possible jumper positions will be: Master, Slave and Cable Select. These are sometimes abbreviated as “MS”, “SL”, and “CS” respectively.  Sometimes you will also have a setting called “Single”. 

To determine the correct setting for your new drive, we have to examine how it will be attached.  Each IDE connector on your motherboard represents an IDE “channel” and can be attached to up to two drives via a ribbon cable.  If there is just one drive attached to an IDE channel, that drive should be set to “Master” (or “Single” if your drive has this option).  If you attach a second drive to the same channel (meaning, it is attached to another connector on the SAME data cable), you would set this drive to “Slave”.

It is perfectly OK to have just one “Master” drive on each IDE channel; it is also fine to have both a “Master” & “Slave” on one channel and nothing on the other.  The important thing to keep in mind is to always maintain the “Master-Slave” relationship.  Another thing to keep in mind is when both a hard drive and a CD/DVD drive are on the same channel, the hard drive should be set to be the Master and the CD/DVD drive the slave.  It is also advisable, but not mandatory, that if you have just one hard drive and just one CD/DVD drive in your system, you put them on separate channels for better performance.  For more information on setting jumpers, check your motherboard manual and your drive’s installation manual.

BIOS Configuration

Configuring the BIOS is usually very simple.  Almost all modern motherboards have BIOS that will auto-detect the drives on your system.  To bring up the BIOS screen, you will need to boot your computer and watch for a message that says something like “hold down DELETE to enter setup”.  Hold down the key and the BIOS will come up.  Once you see the screen, select the “auto-detect hard drive” function.  Your BIOS should detect all the drives on your PC; don’t worry if it does not mention the CD-ROM drive - some older BIOS’s won’t.  Once this is done, choose to save new settings and exit.  As always, check your motherboard manual as you do this step for more details about your particular PC’s BIOS.  After you reboot your PC, watch the screen.  Most PC’s will display a list of the drives attached to the system before Windows starts; you should see your new drive listed here. 

It is worth noting, that some older BIOS’s are limited to what size hard drive they will be able to handle.  If your BIOS was made prior to August 1994, it might not accept a hard drive larger than 528MB.  Prior to February 1995, it might not accept anything greater than 2.1GB.  Prior to January 1998, it might be limited to drives 8.4GB and smaller.  If this is the case, check the installation disk that came with your hard drive for special software that can overcome this limitation.  Read your motherboard manual and your new drive’s installation manual for more information.

Software Configuration

Windows should find your new drive automatically; after Windows starts, double-click on “My Computer” and you should see your new drive.  If you don’t, shut down your PC, check your jumper settings and run through the BIOS auto-detect process again.

Partitioning & Formatting

Before you can use your new drive to store any data, you will have to partition and format it.  Partitioning and formatting is not for the faint of heart and requires some skill.  A mistake during this process can be disastrous to the data on your other drives.  If you are at all unfamiliar with partitioning and formatting your new drive, we urge you to take advantage of one of the many third-party partitioning utilities on the market.  Two excellent products that are very reasonably priced are Partition Magic and Drive Copy.  Both titles are published by Power Quest and are widely available.  If you want to copy your existing data over to your new drive, use Drive Copy.  If you are adding a second, third or fourth hard drive you can use Partition Magic.  These products are inexpensive (under $30), safe and will save you lots of time.

Windows 95

With the original version of window’s 95 you’re really locked into a FAT16 file system.  This means that your hard drive must by partitioned into partitions no larger than 2 GB each.  For this reason, if you have purchased a large hard drive, now is also a good time to upgrade your Window’s version.

Windows 95SE/98/98SE/ME

All of these versions of Windows use the FAT32 file system.  You can partition your new hard drive into one large drive or multiple drives - whatever schema works best for your particular needs. 

Windows 2000/XP

If you have upgraded to Windows 2000 or Windows XP, you’ll have a choice of using the NTFS (New Technology File System) a superior replacement for the old FAT32 schemas.  NTFS offers far more security and reliability than FAT32, especially if you are networking computers.  If you decide to use FAT32 you can always convert your volumes to NTFS - but be aware that the conversion is a one-way process.

Take a little time to plan your partitions.  Do you want one large partition for the entire drive? Or do you want to separate it into different drive volumes? If you have FAT32, it is very popular to create one partition for the entire drive.  Using NTFS, it’s often better to create multiple drives or volumes, especially if you will be connected to a home or office network.  By creating multiple volumes you can more readily control access to shared files and hardware on your own computer.  In addition, NTFS allows you to selectively compress volumes to gain more storage space.  This allows you to compress a directory of graphics files for example, which you may rarely access.

A good rule of thumb to follow is if your hard drive is smaller than 32 GB, you should only use FAT32.  This is because of the overhead space NTFS needs to work effectively.  On smaller drives, NTFS tends to lose its “robustness” and besides, FAT32 is more than adequate for smaller drives.

As an added note, when you purchase a hard drive in a full retail box, many of the large manufactures include a small installation floppy disk; this disk usually has some sort of partitioning software and instructions on it to help you along.  It is also a good idea to check the manufacturer’s website for online installation and partitioning guides.

Important Tips

The most common problem area of installing a hard drive is incorrect jumper settings.  Incorrect settings will cause the drive to not be recognized and may even cause some of your other drives to “disappear”.  Always double-check your jumper settings.  Also make sure, if you are installing an ATA/100 or ATA/133 drive and you’re using the special UDMA cable, the right connectors are plugged into your motherboard, master drive and slave drive.

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Build own PC -Checking Your Connections

Check your work.

Now is a good time to make sure all of your cards are seated properly in their respective slots. Also, check to make sure your RAM chips are seated properly.

Software Configuration

Software configuration for motherboards usually just involves adjusting the BIOS to recognize the new processor.  In "Jumper-less" motherboards, a BIOS will usually be equipped with a "Soft Menu" type BIOS which will be able to auto-detect the processor the first time you boot your PC.  Just make sure you double-check that it detected the processor correctly.  If your motherboard is not self-configuring, after you set your jumpers and/or DIP-switches you will need to adjust the BIOS settings to accommodate the CPU.  In addition to configuring the CPU, you will want to make sure the motherboard recognizes all of your hard drives and expansion cards.  Most modern motherboards can auto-detect all types of hard drives and offer plug-and-play functionality to auto-configure you expansion cards.  Most boards also have an "Optimum" or "Default" setting somewhere in the BIOS.  This is usually the safest and best configuration and unless you run into problems, you should leave this setting alone.  You will need to consult your motherboard's manual for more information on setting up the BIOS.

Important Tips

If your motherboard is not jumperless, make sure you set your jumpers and DIP-switches properly or you can damage both the motherboard and your CPU.  If you encounter problems with your motherboard recognizing your processor or any of your expansion cards, check the manufacturer of your motherboard's website for possible BIOS updates that will correct the problem. 

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Build own PC -Installing Video,Sound and Modem Card

your video card/graphics adapter is different

If you do not have an AGP video card, your card will be a PCI version. This means it will simply be installed in one of your open PCI slots.

Video Cards, also called Graphics Adapters, handle your computer’s ability to display graphics.  From high-color 2D graphics for business and graphic artwork to full-blown 3D graphics with millions of polygons flying by and full-screen DVD movie playback, the video card is an extremely important part of your PC.

Things to Know

When choosing your video card, speed is everything.  The fastest video cards are designed for the Accelerated Graphics Port or AGP bus; if your PC is a newer model and it has an AGP slot, you will want to get an AGP-based video card.  Check your motherboard’s manual to see if you have an AGP slot. 

PCI Express is also another venue for video cards. PCI Express is a newer technology that is evolving for graphics cards, boasting to be faster than AGP. The choice is up to you, just know that AGP will not die too quickly.

With that said, most new video cards today offer 2D acceleration as a standard feature.  Furthermore, with the popularity of 3D graphics for gaming and design, many cards offer on-board 3D acceleration as well. 

Some not-so-standard features include TV output (so you can run a cable to your TV), built-in TV tuners (so you can watch TV on your monitor) and video capturing capabilities.  We recommend you at least get a card with both 2D & 3D acceleration.  The thing to watch here is the 3D “chipset” - competing manufacturers have different designs, and not all designs perform as well as the next or are supported by all software. 

Like CPU’s, video card performance is measured in clock speed.  A high-end video card will have a clock speed of 300 MHz or more whereas less expensive cards may only provide a clock speed of 200 MHz or less.  In addition to the core clock speed, many video cards today measure their memory clock speed as well.  This speed indicates how fast the video card can read from and write to memory.

Another consideration is the amount of Video Memory or VRAM.  A video card with onboard memory is superior in every way, because rather than store the image in your computer’s RAM, it’s stored in memory right on the video card.  As with your computer’s memory, more is always better so look for video cards that offer a minimum of 128MB of VRAM.  We also recommend checking reviews in major PC magazines for an idea of what’s available and which card is right for you.

Software Configuration

Most of today’s new, video cards are plug-and-play.  This makes software configuration a snap.  Once the card is installed and you boot your machine, chances are Windows will display a message like: “Windows has detected new hardware”.  From here you will be prompted to have Windows search for a new driver for this device, etc.  Most video card’s come with a driver CD-ROM or floppy disk.  Follow the instructions in your video card manual for details on installing these drivers.  If you did not get a written manual, try looking for a readme.txt file on the floppy or CD for instructions.

If you are installing a separate 3D Accelerator card

Some people decide not to buy "combo" cards that handle both 2D & 3D graphics. If you are installing a separate 3D Accelerator card, simply install it as you would a video card in a spare PCI slot.  Consult the manual that comes with your 3D card for making final connections using the supplied cable.

Important Tips

Make sure that if your new motherboard has a built-in video card, you disable it before attempting to configure your new video card.  Disabling the built-in video card is often achieved by altering jumper settings on the motherboard itself or it may be in the BIOS.  You should consult your motherboard’s manual for more information if you need to complete this step. 

Another thing to keep in mind is that newer motherboards and video cards offer different “clock speeds” or “timings” for AGP designs.  For example, a video card might be offered as AGP 2X/4X.  This refers to the cards ability to run at 2X, the standard speed, and 4X for even higher-speeds.  If your motherboard supports these higher speeds, you can get even better performance from your card.  To configure the card, you will probably have to adjust a jumper setting that instructs it to run at 2X or 4X.  The motherboard will also need to be configured via jumpers or through the BIOS.  Consult your video card manual and your motherboard manual for more details. AGP 8X is recommended.

Another common practice today is to use two video cards with two monitors to extend your desktop.  For example, if you have stock market data streaming in from the Internet, you can move this application’s window to the second monitor where you can keep an eye on it, but still do other tasks on your main monitor.  Most new computers will support up to three video cards and monitors - but there can be noticeable changes in performance depending on your overall configuration. 

Some video cards can even provide dual monitor support on a single card. Most modern video cards come with a DVI and VGA port on them.

About Sound Cards

Sound is an essential element to virtually all PC applications.  From multimedia business presentations to listening to high-quality MP3 files and playing thunderous video game audio, a good sound card will bring your PC to life.

Things to Know

When choosing your sound card, the only things to really keep in mind are the features each card offers.  Sound cards do not rely on any special processor configuration so you’re free to get the card that meets both your audio needs and budget concerns.  The only thing to keep in mind is to make sure you get a card that will fit in the type of slot you have free.  High-end sound cards are designed for the PCI bus; if your PC is a newer model, or you have just upgraded to a new motherboard, chances are you will want to get a PCI-based sound card.  Keep in mind that if you do go with an ISA-based sound card, your selection of sound cards and feature-sets will be very limited.  It is highly recommended you consider only installing a PCI-based sound card. New motherboards come with PCI, ISA is a very legacy (old) slot.

With that said, most new sound cards today can handle the standard audio duties for recording and playing back high-quality sound.  For extra features, musicians might want to get wave-table synthesis and DSP (digital signal processor) capabilities as well.  Avid gamers should look for a card with 3D surround effects to make games come alive with realism.  We recommend checking reviews in major PC magazines for an idea of what’s available and which card is right for you. Most new sound cards come with Surround Sound of some derivation (4.1, 5.1, etc).

Sound cards are available in every possible flavor - you can literally create a home theater with the right combination of components.  One often overlooked item when purchasing a sound card is to get speakers that can take advantage of your new sound card’s capabilities.  As with most things, speakers are not all created equal - for the best results, don’t forget to review speakers while researching sound cards!

Software Configuration

Most of today’s new, PCI-based, sound cards are plug-and-play.  This makes software configuration a snap.  Once the card is installed and you boot your machine, chances are Windows will display a message like: “Windows has detected new hardware”.  From here you will be prompted to have Windows search for a new driver for this device, etc.  Most sound card’s come with a driver CD-ROM or floppy disk.  Follow the instructions in your sound card manual for details on installing these drivers.  If you did not get a written manual, try looking for a readme.txt file on the floppy or CD for instructions.

Important Tips

Make sure that if your motherboard has a built-in sound card, you disable it before attempting to configure your new sound card; this built-in card will interfere with your new sound card if you do not disable it.  Disabling the built-in sound card is often achieved by altering jumper settings on the motherboard itself or in the BIOS.  You should consult your motherboard’s manual for more information if you need to complete this step.  

Two last tips: don’t forget to connect the audio cable between the sound card and your CD/DVD drive and if you have any unusual components such as a TV tuner card, don’t forget to plug in the audio jumper cable!

About Network Interface Cards

Network Interface Cards (NIC), also called Network Adapters or Ethernet Adapters, are becoming more and more popular on home PC’s.  For years, PC’s in the business environment utilized network cards to connect to each other, share files and even share Internet connections.  Now that network cards have become so inexpensive, many home users are enjoying these benefits as well.

Things to Know

Network cards come in many different combinations of speed, security features and connection types.  When choosing your network card, you should consider both cost and speed.  The standard for fast networking cards right now is 10/100Mbps.  They come in a PCI-based configuration and are made by a variety of manufacturers. There is even GigaBit adapters (1000 Mbps) that you can get if you really want speed (although it is not heavily supported yet).

Like modems, one of the most important things to keep in mind when choosing a network card is to stick with a name-brand manufacturer.  Names like 3COM are great but can be expensive; yet smaller, equally reliable companies like Netgear and D-Link have very reasonable offerings.  If you don’t need all the speed of a 10/100Mbps card, you can pick up an even cheaper 10Mbps card that often even comes in an ISA-based configuration as well. 

You may want to consider buying a motherboard with an onboard NIC.  This is a good alternative as it frees up a PCI slot and overall performance is comparable to a standalone NIC. 

The last thing to keep in mind is the type of connector your network will have.  Most cards offer a variety of connector types, from wireless and fiber-optic to the industry standard RJ-45 jack.  For the best combination of price and speed, we recommend a 10/100 PCI card that has an RJ-45 connector - this accepts a Category 5 cable, which is now the standard for networking computers. 

However, if you are connecting this PC to an existing network, you should check to make sure you get the same type of connector on your new card.  The other type of connector is a BNC or co-axial connector.  Some cards have both, which is a safe bet if you are unsure. We recommend checking reviews in major PC magazines for an idea of what’s available and which card is right for you.

Software Configuration

Most of today’s new PCI-based network cards are plug-and-play.  This makes software configuration a snap.  Once the card is installed and you boot your machine, chances are Windows will display a message like: “Windows has detected new hardware”.  From here you will be prompted to have Windows search for a new driver for this device, etc.  Most network cards come with a driver CD-ROM or floppy disk.  Follow the instructions in your network card’s manual for details on installing these drivers.  If you did not get a written manual, try looking for a readme.txt file on the floppy or CD for instructions.  Setting up the actual networking settings in Windows is beyond the scope of this guide.  Please refer to your network card’s manual, ask your network administrator, or check the Windows Network Troubleshooting help file for help with this.

Important Tips

Most network cards work right out of the box with no configuration.  However, just to be safe, check with your network card’s manual for any configuration you may need to do via jumper settings. Usually you have to install drivers before actually installing the hardware.

Always make sure that you obtain good quality cables from your NIC supplier.  Most networking cables are specially engineered for performance and while a homemade cable might work, it will never work well.

If you are installing a modem

Modems are your computer’s connection to the phone line and thus, the outside world.  The most popular use for a modem, of course, is to connect to the Internet.  Since once they get on the net most people never want to leave, a good, fast modem is becoming more and more important in today’s connected world.

If you have a second telephone line, you may want to consider adding a second modem to your PC.  Many Internet Service Providers or ISP’s allow you to take advantage of a dual connection.  This may literally double your connection speed!

Types of Modems

These days there is more than one way to connect to the Internet besides a basic, dial-up modem.  For example, as of this writing, ISDN, Cable and DSL technologies are becoming widely available due to their ability to handle high-speed Internet access. 

ISDN modems work like a regular dial-up modem, but require a special line from your local telephone company.  You actually end up with two phone lines, so when you are online, the other line or channel is free for voice communications.  Although faster than traditional dial-up modems, ISDN can be expensive depending on where you live. ISDN is very outdated.

Like ISDN, DSL requires a special telephone line from your local telephone company.  DSL offers high-speed access at very reasonable rate with the added benefit of being able to use your telephone while online.

Cable modems on the other hand are used to connect via your local cable television service.  These connections are high speed and usually don’t require you to connect or dial-up to the service.  Whenever you start your computer you’re connected! 

Since these types of modems are usually obtained and installed by the local service provider, we’re going to focus instead on basic modem technology.  You may have noticed that 56k modems have been around for a while and don’t seem to get any faster - this is because of limitations imposed by the FCC; a basic dial-up modem cannot legally access the internet faster than 56k! Your best bet is to go with either DSL or Cable at this point in time, they are both relatively cheap.

Things to Know

When choosing your modem, speed is everything.  The fastest dial-up modems available now are 56K modems.  These come in a variety of flavors like 56K “Flex” which incorporate various schemas to work around the 56k limitations and are specific to the modem’s manufacturer.  The most important thing to keep in mind when choosing a modem is to stick with a name-brand manufacturer.  It doesn’t matter which one, but a big name like Intel or US Robotics will have a much better quality modem then other no-name manufacturers.

With that said, the next issue is whether to get an internal modem or external modem.  Internal modems, the focus of this chapter are generally much cheaper then external models.  In our experience, there is really no reason to pay extra for an external modem when installing an internal modem card is so easy.  And, generally speaking, internal modem cards give better performance since slow serial ports do not hamper them.  We recommend checking reviews in major PC magazines for an idea of what’s available and which card is right for you.

Software Configuration

Most of today’s new modems are plug-and-play - this makes software configuration a snap.  Once the card is installed and you boot your machine, chances are Windows will display a message like: “Windows has detected new hardware”. From here you will be prompted to have Windows search for a new driver for this device, etc.  Most modems come with a driver CD-ROM or floppy disk.  Follow the instructions in your modem manual for details on installing these drivers.  If you did not get a written manual, try looking for a readme.txt file on the floppy or CD for instructions.

It’s also a good idea to periodically check with your modem’s manufacture’s website for upgrades to the modem driver.  These are published quite frequently and can often boost performance and resolve many problems.

Important Tips

Modems are one of the simpler installations you can do because there is not a whole lot that can go wrong.  Most modems work right out of the box with no configuration.  However, just to be safe, check with your modem’s manual for any configuration you may need to do via jumper settings.  

Don’t forget to periodically check your modem manufacturer’s website for upgrades.  These upgrades usually involve “Flashing” your modem with an updated operating system from the manufacturer.  These can usually be downloaded from the manufacturer’s website and usually incorporate features found in new models of your brand of modem.

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Build own PC -Installing The CPU & RAM

About Processors

A processor is your computer's "brain".  It handles all of the calculations that make your computer work and because of this determines the computing speed of your PC.  A faster processor can handle more intense applications with ease and give you the horsepower you need to get the most out of your new PC!

Things to Know

For compatibilities sake, there are really only two names that matter when it comes to processors: Intel and AMD.  In the past, Intel had been king with the fastest processors and the best reputation.  However, lately things have changed.  AMD really made a name for itself by introducing the blazingly fast Athlon processor that broke the 1 GHz clock speed barrier and as of this writing, AMD has just released the Athlon 64 FX 55 (2.6 GHz), their newest CPU designed to maximize your experience with the Windows XP operating systems. The Athlon 64 is also 64-bits, instead of the standard 32-bit, allowing to you use the next generation software that comes out for 64-bit processing. Meanwhile, Intel has announced their latest “catch-up” entry into the processor playing field with the 3.6 GHz Pentium 4 processor (32-bit still).  With that in mind, you should understand that both manufacturers offer excellent processors and either will work very well for you, just make sure you get a motherboard that supports your choice.

Choosing which processor you want is usually a combination price and speed.  The fastest processors are usually much more expensive then the next fastest model.  For this reason, it’s almost always a bad idea to buy the fastest processor available.  This processor will only be discounted when a faster model is released, so it pays to be aware of when new models are going to be released and buy then.  Processors are rated in megahertz (MHz) and gigahertz (GHz) - this is known as the "clock speed" of the processor.  Nowadays you will see more and more chips rated in gigahertz (GHz) - these are of course the fastest.  As a general rule, you should buy the fastest chip you can afford, however, when selecting your processor, be aware that not all processors are created equal.  For example an Intel Pentium III 800MHz processor is faster (in many operations, especially those involving graphics and floating point calculations) then an Intel Celeron 800MHz processor.  Intel makes both processors, and they look very similar but the Celeron is of a different design.  The best way to sort through all of this is to check out reviews and benchmarks from online sites or in magazines.

It is also imperative to note that the Athlon 64 FX 55 (2.6 GHz) will not work “1 GHz slower” than the Intel Pentium 4 (3.6 GHz). These processors are created totally differently and the internal workings of the processor itself vary, making the actually run about the same speed. Intel and AMD have been neck and neck and so have the fans from each side. To be honest, it’s a matter of choice; just know that the GHz speed on each do not compare directly when you cross brands. It is just like comparing apples to oranges, you will not get the correct result.

CPU’s are installed on motherboards using a variety of configurations or “Sockets”.  Sockets have a variety of names such as Socket 1, Socket 370, Slot 1, etc.  Although it’s beyond the scope of this program to examine sockets in detail, keep in mind that you must make sure your new processor will be compatible with your motherboard.

Software Configuration

Software configuration for new processors usually just involves adjusting the BIOS to recognize the new processor.  In "Jumper-less" motherboards, a BIOS will usually be equipped with a "Soft Menu" type BIOS which will be able to auto-detect the processor the first time you boot your PC.  Just make sure you double-check that it detected the processor correctly.  If your motherboard is not self-configuring, after setting your jumpers and/or DIP-switches you will need to adjust the BIOS settings to accommodate the new CPU.  You will need to consult your motherboard's manual for information on setting the BIOS to accommodate the new processor.

If your CPU is different

Although we used a Pentium III CPU in our PC, newer CPU’s may use a different slot design.  Older CPU’s as well as Pentium II and Celeron processors use what is called a "Slot 1" design.  If you are not installing one of these CPU's you are most likely using a "Socket 7" or even newer design.  The original Pentium as well as AMD and Cyrix use this design.  If you are using this type of CPU, your motherboard will probably make use of a ZIF (zero-insertion force) socket - if so, please refer to chapter 5 for instructions on this type of installation. Note that the Slot design is almost extinct at this time and you will only see them on past motherboards.

In all cases, refer to the CPU installation instructions for help on determining the type of slot you need to use and how to properly install the processor.  You may even want to consider purchasing a new motherboard and a new CPU as a “boxed” set.  This means that the CPU is already installed on the motherboard and ready to go right out of the box.  You can often find slightly better prices when purchasing the components this way!

You should first choose a CPU, note the socket it requires and look for a motherboard with that socket. A motherboard with a different socket than your CPU’s socket is worthless!

Things to Know About Memory

When choosing memory, you must determine what type and how much your motherboard can accept. Check your motherboard manual for the exact type of chip (SIMM, EDO, DIMM, SDRAM, RIMM, DDR, etc.), the exact speed (usually defined in nanoseconds, like: 60ns), the exact size (like 64MB, 128MB, 256MB, 512MB etc.), the total amount the motherboard will accept per bank, and any other special requirements like whether it has to be PC100 or PC133, etc.  Next, examine how many banks you have available so you have an idea of what kind of chips you can buy. 

How much memory do you really need? We think that more is definitely better but with today’s operating systems, the absolute minimum is 512MB for Windows XP (as it uses a good half or more itself as the OS).  1024MB (1GB) is so cheap today that it is recommended you go that route. You will surely notice the difference in performance.

As of this writing, the best memory choice available is probably the Double Data Rate DRAM (DDR), which will work in newer motherboards.  Unlike older memory technologies, DDR’s operate at two operations per clock cycle, effectively doubling the memory bandwidth.  DDR’s are available in different configurations including PC2700, PC3200, all the way up to PC4400.  DDR technology is rapidly expanding, which means you should always look for the latest available memory modules. Be sure that your motherboard supports these newer modules first!

There is also a new DDR type out, named DDR2. These modules usually come in higher speeds but your motherboard must explicitly support DDR2. DDR2 modules are not the same as DDR modules so be careful when using them in combination with your motherboard. Some motherboards support DDR2 and DDR on the same board but have markings or colorings to distinguish the two. Please check with your motherboard manual if this is the case.

RDRAM (RAMBUS) is also another memory type that you may wish to look into. Generally, RDRAM has higher speeds but is also more expensive. Remember that mostly all your limitations are set by your motherboard, so be sure to check if your motherboard supports RDRAM before purchasing any modules.

Buy brand name memory from a reputable manufacturer.  Poorly manufactured memory can cause you problems later like mysterious "lock-ups" and can cause your system to crash unexpectedly.  Good brands for memory are: Toshiba, Siemens, Corsair, Kingston, Samsung, and Micron.

Software Configuration

Most motherboards auto detect new memory upon the first boot up and will instantly begin using it.  You therefore don't have to really do any configuring.  Even so, check your motherboard's manual to be certain.

If your RAM chips are different

If you are not using 168-pin DIMM’s like we are, consult your motherboard manual for required configurations; there is usually a chart that shows what chips can be installed in what combination.

If you are installing a SIMM, you will do so by inserting in at about a 45-degree angle.  Obviously, SIMM’s don’t sit in the motherboard at a 45-degree angle so now you need to rotate it to the vertical position.  This may require a bit of pressure, but do not force it.  If it is too hard, it’s probably installed backwards.  When it is vertical, you should see the little plastic or metal clips snap into place, holding the SIMM securely.

If your motherboard is even newer and you have SDRAM, RIMMS or DDR, these slide into the appropriate slots on your motherboard.  There is an alignment notch offset from the middle to guide you when inserting the RIMM.  At either end of the slot is a plastic lever, which presses downwards and locks the memory module into place.

Always remember to check your motherboard’s user manual for the correct number and style of memory modules it will accept!

Important Tips

Memory is extremely susceptible to static electricity, so it bears repeating: be very careful. 

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Build own PC -Installing The Motherboard

About Motherboards

If processors are the brain of your PC, the motherboard can be considered the nervous system.  The motherboard or main board connects all of your PC's components together.  Because of this, it is the core of your system and the first thing you should consider when building a new PC.

Things to Know

One of the first considerations when selecting a new motherboard is the Front Side Bus speed or FSB.  This is the speed at which the CPU is able to communicate with the components on the motherboard.  The FSB is measured in MHz or even GHz (1,000 MHz); the fastest FSB available as of this writing is 800 MHz.  Older motherboards like the one we first used were usually available in 100 MHz, 133 MHz, etc. Then came the higher ones such as 233 MHz, all the way up to 533 MHz and then to our current 800 MHz peak now. Obviously you want to obtain the highest FSB you can when purchasing your new motherboard.

Another consideration is to look for a motherboard that offers some flexibility to you for both current and future products.  For example, look for a board that offers the latest IDE bus speeds like ATA/133.  This will let you get the fastest performance from any UDMA hard drives you may have now, or plan on installing later, while providing backward compatibility with your existing drives. Most drives that you will buy today come with ATA/133 already and DMA of some sort.

Many motherboards also offer an array of built-in features such as an onboard sound card, onboard network card and sometimes even an onboard video card.  This may be convenient if you want to save some money, but in general, we prefer motherboards without built-in video cards - they’re usually sub-standard to regular video cards.  Built-in sound and network cards however, can be a nice convenience and save some money.  

A few other things to think about when selecting a motherboard are the number and types of ports available and the power supply requirements.  Not every motherboard comes with every type of port so make sure the one you select has at least one (preferably two) of each type. 

One newer port consideration is the Universal Serial Bus (USB).  USB is an external bus (an interconnect) standard that supports data transfer rates of 12 Mbps.  A single USB port can be used to connect up to 127 peripheral devices, such as mice, modems and keyboards.  Introduced in 1996, USB has completely replaced serial and parallel ports.  It also supports plug-and-play installations and hot swapping plug-and-play, which is the ability to add and remove devices to a computer while the computer is running and have the operating system automatically recognize the change.  USB 2.0, which supports data transfer rates of 480 Mbps, was recently introduced as of this writing for Microsoft* Windows* XP. USB 2.0 is the standard that most external devices adhere to today, so it’s a worthwhile investment to say the least.

With the use of all types of drives, namely CD-R and DVD-R drives, power consumption has increased in computers. 250-watt power supplies are no longer adequate for most computers and it provides little room for upgrading later. A good sized power supply for today’s computers would be anywhere between 350-watt to 500-watt, depending on the number of devices installed.

Speaking of power, the ATX power supply can be a bit tricky at first. The ATX standard is a 20-pin (2 rows of 10 pins) connector that plugs into the motherboard. These wires are usually rather thick and bundled together, making it easy to figure out what it is. The second is ATX-E, the 24-pin (2 rows of 12 pins) standard, that is generally found in Pentium 4 motherboards and respective power supplies. Most power supplies today will play it safe and give you a 20-pin connector and then also have a separate 4-pin connector that you can plug in adjacent to the 20-pin, if needed. If not, you simply leave it hanging somewhere safe. Worse comes to worse, you can buy a 24-to 20-pin converter and vice versa.

If the different types of motherboards and processors are confusing to you, you're not alone!  The good news is, it is fairly straightforward: Processor's (which plug directly into the motherboard) require a specific type of motherboard to work properly.  Once you know which processor you want to use, you can locate and choose a motherboard that will work with your processor - that's it!

Having said that, try to get a "jumper-less" motherboard if possible.  They are much simpler to setup and are available from top manufacturers including Asus and Abit.  Check the Parts List on this CD for more info on choosing a board.  We also recommend checking reviews in major PC magazines for an idea of what’s available and which board is right for you.

Software Configuration

Software configuration for motherboards usually just involves adjusting the BIOS to recognize the new processor.  In "Jumper-less" motherboards, a BIOS will usually be equipped with a "Soft Menu" type BIOS which will be able to auto-detect the processor the first time you boot your PC.  Just make sure you double-check that it detected the processor correctly.  If your motherboard is not self-configuring, after you set your jumpers and/or DIP-switches you will need to adjust the BIOS settings to accommodate the CPU.  In addition to configuring the CPU, you will want to make sure the motherboard recognizes all of your hard drives and expansion cards.  Most modern motherboards can auto-detect all types of hard drives and offer plug-and-play functionality to auto-configure your expansion cards.  Most boards also have an "Optimum" or "Default" setting somewhere in the BIOS. This is usually the safest and best configuration and unless you run into problems, you should leave this setting alone.  You will need to consult your motherboard's manual for more information on setting up the BIOS.

If your motherboard mounts differently

All cases/mounting surfaces are often a little different.  If your case does not provide brass stand-offs, but rather uses nylon/plastic standoffs or spacers, you will need to follow some different steps: For every hole on the motherboard that lines up with an eyelet hole on the case (a hole that is very long so that you can slide things in it), install a plastic standoff on the motherboard.  If you look closely at these plastic stand-offs, one end is designed to poke through the motherboard and expand to keep it in place.  The little disk on the other end of the standoff will be used later to slide into the eyelet holes on the case's mounting surface.  Typically a small piece of paper with a diagram will come with your case showing you exactly how to attach the standoffs.

Some cases come with mounting panels.  Install the motherboard-mounting panel if your case uses one.  This usually involves inserting a rail on the bottom end of the plate into a tab or guide on the case.  Then, like a hinge, raise the top until the plate is vertical with the board inside the case.  Locking in a spring-loaded handle, or simply screwing it in then closes this removable plate.  On other cases, the plate may slide in a different way and then get screwed into place.  These plates are then easily removed later if you ever need to remove the motherboard

Check your work!

Always double-check your work - check to be certain that the bottom surface of the motherboard is not touching any part of the case or mounting plate.  Make sure the slots and connectors line up with the holes on the back of the case and definitely be sure that the board is fastened securely.  If you press down on the board at any point, it should not bend down.

Don’t skimp on installing standoffs or screws to save time!  Usually, by the time you’re finished installing all the components, some motherboard screws will no longer be accessible so you must do it now.  Leaving out standoffs may result in the motherboard shorting or grounding against the chassis - this can mean having to buy a new motherboard!

Important Tips

Make sure you set your jumpers and DIP-switches properly or you may damage both the board and your CPU.  If you encounter problems with your board recognizing your processor or any of your expansion cards, check the manufacturer of your motherboard's website for possible BIOS updates that will correct the problem. 

Lastly, if you are purchasing a new motherboard and a new CPU, consider buying a “boxed” set.  This means that the CPU is already installed on the motherboard and ready to go right out of the box.  You can often find slightly better prices when purchasing the components this way! Just make sure the motherboard and processor will work together, which generally the vendors make sure of, but you never know.

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Build own PC -Before We Start & Stat & Static Electricity

Which parts do I buy? Which are the best?

If you click on the "Parts" button, you will see a list of the parts needed to build a PC.  You will also see exactly which parts we chose for our PC and a list of manufacturers we recommend.  Use this as a guide when choosing your own parts. 

Keep in mind that technology changes very rapidly - as of this writing, we’ve updated the parts list to include recommendations for newer components that take advantage of these changes.  Although these parts are newer than the ones we used, the general installation procedures are similar.  Always remember to read and understand the component’s instruction manual before installing it.

Where is the best place to buy parts?

There are many good places to buy computer parts.  One option is to go to a large computer retail store in your area; the support is generally good and most retail stores provide reasonable exchange policies.  The trade-off is that you’ll pay a little more than you would in other places; sometimes you can pay a lot more - so be sure to shop around and compare prices.

Most towns have smaller stores that sell and repair computer equipment.  These are not large retail stores, but instead usually occupy an office suite in a strip mall.  Regardless of location, such stores are often less expensive and can provide individual attention.  Their hardware is typically retail packaged from the manufacturer, but they also sell OEM hardware, which is usually wrapped plainly and has very little documentation.  This is generally good hardware and costs a lot less, however, if you feel you need documentation, you should not buy OEM hardware.

The third alternative is buying the hardware at a Computer Show.  Most good-sized cities have computer shows nearby.  These shows are like swap meets or flea markets.  Computer parts vendors show up to sell their merchandise and because there are many vendors selling the same item, competition is very fierce.  This is good for you, because you’ll be able to buy a lot of products at deep discounts.  The only negative aspect with computer shows is that service can become a problem.  If you need to exchange something or have a problem, it might be difficult for you to contact a vendor.  For this reason, we recommend you only make purchases from vendors who have a store somewhere nearby.  That way after the show, they can be easily contacted for an exchange if necessary.  Another tip is always to buy brand-name products.

Other Case Designs

Some manufacturers of cases have made efforts to make their cases "screw-less".  With this design, you usually take hold of the bottom front of the case and give it a nice solid yank - the front then pulls off.  In our experience this usually requires a few tries and some muscle - but most cases are pretty durable.  After you pull off the front, the sides lift and slide off and you just lift the top off.  Your case comes apart in four pieces. 

Other such cases have a similar design - always consult the case’s instruction manual to determine exactly how your case should be opened.

Static Electricity

Static electricity is nothing to be taken lightly.  Believe it or not, your body can store thousands of volts of static electricity, which translates into certain death to virtually all of your PC’s delicate components.  It is vital that you always ground yourself by touching the bare metal case chassis before and during the upgrade process.  It is also a good idea to work on a non-carpeted surface in your home.  As an extra precaution, you can purchase a wrist-strap grounding device at most electronic stores; this will slide over your wrist and provide a constant ground for extra safety. 

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How to build your own PC- Introduction

1.  Build own PC -Before We Start & Stat & Static Electricity

2.  Build own PC -Installing The Motherboard

3.  Build own PC -Installing The CPU & RAM

4.  Build own PC -Installing Video,Sound and Modem Card

5.  Build own PC -Checking Your Connections

6.  Build own PC -Installing The Hard Drive & Floppy

7.  Build own PC -Installing The CD/DVD Writer Drives

8.  Build own PC -Making Final Connection

9.  Build own PC -Checking Your Work

10.Build own PC -Completing The System

11.Build own PC -Parts List/Shopping List

12.Build own PC -Glossary

Why build your own PC? Well, it's fun, challenging, inexpensive, rewarding and you'll learn a lot about the computer itself.  You also get to build a computer tailored to your exact needs! Probably one of the nicest things is that when you need to upgrade in the future, you'll know exactly what to do and how to do it.

What do you need to have? You need to have a lot of patience, a little common sense, and most importantly: confidence!

You will also need a few basic hand-tools; nothing complicated – a few screwdrivers (Philips, slotted and Torx) and a pair of pliers.  Before starting, make sure you have a clean workspace – your kitchen table should do just fine. 

The first step is to get organized! Make sure to click on the Parts List/Shopping List.  This will list all the parts you will need for your PC - you can also print this list and take it with you when you go shopping for your new PC components.

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